"Not happy with my cadence braking" thread in "Staying Alive"
Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor Damp, cold surface or not, from 10mph your stopping distance is about 1 bike length! I don't really think ...

Exactly!

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Yes! It's an extender.

Ah, I see what you mean now.

And in snow - I think because in both circumstances the material piles up in front of the tyre & acts like a wedge. Not something I'd care to try on a bike.

The other interesting thing about the graph (always assuming of course it's kosher) is that in the dry, the locked wheel is giving very nearly as much braking as the ideal, and it's much easier to achieve than the "nearly locked" state. Hence (again in a car), locking the wheels may be the best tactic in these circumstances. I'd always thought otherwise.

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Ian.

See:
http://www.therevcounter.com/showpos...73&postcount=2
http://www.therevcounter.com/showpos...3&postcount=12

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Argue with me: http://the-ride-info.blogspot.com/

In days of yore, before widespread ABS, stamp HARD! on the pedal was taught at some skid schools (with applying a bit of lock, then the release to avoid, as an option).


One of H's War Stories:

At Thruxton skid pan, paired with a girl who worked for the Foreign Office and was being posted abroad; they'd paid for her to do a week car course to gain a licence, and to do the skid course.

We were doing the 'avid' stuff, steering around a cone.

Instructor's running about in front, yelling "Steer towards me!" then jumping out of the way.

She went after him

Missed him by inches . . .

Where you look is ___ __ __ [no prizes]

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Argue with me: http://the-ride-info.blogspot.com/

I had read that actually but everything else I have ever read or seen about cadence breaking has been about stopping and has usually advocated releasing the brakes completely to steer. I guess I need to get down to Castle Combe and do a skid course.

If not specialised, very advanced then. I imagine you could roll a car if you did it wrong.