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Forks and fork seals

Ok, bearings done, next job forks. Right hand fork, one of the bolts that holds the spindle in has rounded its head. You can see ...


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Old 01-07-09, 21:34   #1
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Default Forks and fork seals

Ok, bearings done, next job forks.

Right hand fork, one of the bolts that holds the spindle in has rounded its head. You can see the other side of it cleanly. My thoughts were to drill it out from the back side, and hopefully it will break free and undo itself. Any thoughts on this approach?

Also, the seals are welded in. And I mean properly. They haven't been changed in years and the rubber has worn, cracked ad expanded holding them in very tightly. It was hard enough getting the dust seals off. Any suggestions as to how to get them out? I've tried hot water. I have a heat gun (but not used it) but no blow torch.

All suggestions gratefully received.

Thanks

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Old 02-07-09, 10:23   #2
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Default Re: Forks and fork seals

RWU forks? Remove the springs and the damper rod/cartridge from the fork lowers (undo the retaining bolt before removing the springs!).
Remove the retaining circlip above the seal then <haynes> clamp the lower in a vice, grasp the stanchion, push the stanchion fully into the lower then pull it sharply to displace the seal </haynes>.
In reality it usually needs repeated and prolonged tugging and smashing of the stanchion against the seal to get it to budge, but I've never known it not to work! Brutal but effective.
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Old 02-07-09, 10:36   #3
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Default Re: Forks and fork seals

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Originally Posted by Doc View Post
RWU forks? Remove the springs and the damper rod/cartridge from the fork lowers (undo the retaining bolt before removing the springs!).
Remove the retaining circlip above the seal then <haynes> clamp the lower in a vice, grasp the stanchion, push the stanchion fully into the lower then pull it sharply to displace the seal </haynes>.
In reality it usually needs repeated and prolonged tugging and smashing of the stanchion against the seal to get it to budge, but I've never known it not to work! Brutal but effective.
Always assuming you can get the frigging damper rod bolt undone - spring pressure is NOT enough! AARGH!

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Old 02-07-09, 10:36   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc View Post
RWU forks? Remove the springs and the damper rod/cartridge from the fork lowers (undo the retaining bolt before removing the springs!).
Remove the retaining circlip above the seal then <haynes> clamp the lower in a vice, grasp the stanchion, push the stanchion fully into the lower then pull it sharply to displace the seal </haynes>.
In reality it usually needs repeated and prolonged tugging and smashing of the stanchion against the seal to get it to budge, but I've never known it not to work! Brutal but effective.
I've never known it not to work either, but this one seems not to be budging. It seems to have corroded in, much like the wheel bearings. Will try again. And again.

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Old 02-07-09, 10:36   #5
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Default Re: Forks and fork seals

I had some forks recently that resisted the 'slide hammer' (yes I know it's not) technique which, I agree, normally works fine. Eventually I gave up and roasted the seal area over a camping stove, worked a treat. I'd advise against really giving it the berries w/o some heat as when I got the forks apart my attempts pre the heating had really, really battered a loose spacer and it took me a fair while to file/dress it back into shape.
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Old 02-07-09, 10:44   #6
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Default Re: Forks and fork seals

IME pouring boiling water over the seals as well as the stanchions help soften the seal to a point where a good tugging session will releive it. Might take a couple of kettles worth mind. Not forgetting to remove the circlips mind as it is something I have never done no sir not me .
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Old 02-07-09, 10:48   #7
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Always assuming you can get the frigging damper rod bolt undone - spring pressure is NOT enough! AARGH!
Wasn't a problem for me. Luckily.

On one at least.

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Old 03-07-09, 21:34   #8
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Yay, one down one to go.

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Old 04-07-09, 00:29   #9
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Default Re: Forks and fork seals

on the pinch bolt, can you cut it in half through the clamp slot? Once the load is off the bottom part may well unwind pretty easily (this is a suitable place for an easyout)
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Old 04-07-09, 08:05   #10
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on the pinch bolt, can you cut it in half through the clamp slot? Once the load is off the bottom part may well unwind pretty easily (this is a suitable place for an easyout)
No. Its done up too tight. Its the head that has shredded a bit, and I think that drilling it from the back will break the lock.

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Old 04-07-09, 12:40   #11
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Default Re: Forks and fork seals

Last seized fork seal I ended up Dremeling out. You do have to use a bit of care but once I'd ground through the metal ring the rubber outer part of the seal protected the housing and it came out easily. Obviously you then wash it all out and clean it up before fitting new seals.

Re the pinch bolt, if you drill off the head it's very likely the bolt will then undo normally - provided you can get some purchase on it (like an easy out). It will have a plain shank though so it'll only come out one way (the way it went in).

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Old 04-07-09, 18:49   #12
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Default Re: Forks and fork seals

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Originally Posted by maccecht View Post
IME pouring boiling water over the seals as well as the stanchions help soften the seal to a point where a good tugging session will releive it. Might take a couple of kettles worth mind. Not forgetting to remove the circlips mind as it is something I have never done no sir not me .
Good one that
I'll store it in the memory banks for later
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